Prong types in ring casting
The prongs (“paws”) were specially invented to focus all attention on a luxurious gemstone, which in such a frame reveals its maximum potential. All the rays of the sun are concentrated in the central part of the diamond, conveying the perfection of every facet, so the prong types in ring casting take one of the main roles.
There are many ways in which jewelers attach inserts to products. The installation process is called bartacking. After all, the decoration should be both beautiful and comfortable. That is why jewelers pay a lot of attention to setting. The socket in which the stone is attached must be of the same size, the frame must match the insert. After all, if the thorns or edges of the stone rub against the skin all the time, no one will wear such an ornament. If the setting is made poorly, the insert will constantly cling to both surrounding objects and clothing, or it will be completely lost. There are many ways to perform bartacking. The choice of method depends on the size of the stone and the characteristics of the decoration itself.
The simplest type of attachment is a blind caste. In this case, the stones are placed on a flat-bottomed cup. The stone is held in the decoration thanks to the walls of this cup. If this method is used, it is necessary that the surface with which the stones come into contact with the cup are flat. Jasper, corals, turquoise and other opaque stones can be mounted in such a frame. If you need to insert a transparent stone, the bottom of the cup must be covered with a foil layer. This method has one drawback. Under custom, it is impossible to check for defects in the stone. The advantage of this method is the strong adhesion of the stone to the frame.
If you need to fix a transparent stone insert, a rim or tsarovy cast is used. There are several varieties of this setting method – rim setting, mirror or cameo setting. Usually, when creating a rim caste, jewelers use weaving and openwork patterns. The stone is not only illuminated from above, but also illuminated from below. A secure fit is provided by a support strap. A shelf is cut out inside the product in the upper part of the rim caste. For this, a special tool is used. The stone is placed on this shelf, depending on the cut of the stone, the rim covers it around the perimeter or around the circumference.
Corner setting uses corners (small posts). They are installed around the stone. Corners are usually made of the same material as the piece of jewellery itself. The corners are often made in the form of balls. This makes the product attractive. With this method of bartacking, there is free access from the bottom. This product is easy to clean. This method is most often used when the jeweler is going to use a lot of small stones. The main advantage of this method is that it is possible to decorate the product with inserts. Since corners are installed around the insert, the stone itself visually looks larger. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the corners. If they are made poorly, the posts will constantly cling to all surrounding objects. The stone itself may fall out when worn or cleaned.
Corner castes are divided into open and embedded. In the open version, the use of corners is combined with fixation with a ring rim. Built-in castes are subdivided into faden, tikt mi squares. The jeweler drills a hole in the jewellery. For insertion, this hole acts as a socket. When using the tikt method, stones are randomly “scattered” over the surface of the decoration.
One of the varieties of tick fastening is pavé setting. With this method, medium-sized stones are fixed in even rows. Metal is not visible through the rows of stones. It looks like a single surface of inserts. The jeweler drills holes in the metal surface to hold the inserts. After the stones are installed in the holes, all the gaps between them are filled with molten metal. Sometimes jewelers manage to fill a piece of jewellery with small stones so that from a distance they look like one large faceted stone.
Another fairly common setting method is the claw caste. In this case, claws are used (paws – clamps). They protrude near the insert and look like a rim. The stone is installed on a foot – a base. There are different types of prongs. The main thing is the quality work of the jeweler. If the work is done well, the legs will not cling to clothing. A stone of any size in such an adornment is easily perceived. Visually, the insert looks lighter and larger.
Another type of claw caste is the carmezine mount. Few people know about this method now. Rings designed in this way can be inherited from mom or grandmother. A large stone is placed in the center of the ring. It is surrounded by medium-sized stones of a contrasting color. They surround a large stone around the perimeter or a wreath.
In the manufacture of wedding rings, the channel type setting is usually used. It is considered the most durable. But the wedding ring is worn all your life. This method of setting is used when you want to focus on the main stone located in the center of the ring. The channel cast is also used in cases where the inserts want to be located in one ditch.